My new job takes me to a business park each morning. To be fair, it’s nothing fancy, and to be brutally honest, it’s in the arsehole of nowhere. The only way to get there by public transport means crossing an utterly depressing suburb of 1960s architectual malfunction. However, what makes things seriously interesting for me – the park is near the airport.

You’d think that someone who lives in the flight path of a half-decent international airport would be fed up with planes. I’m not. I love them struggling in extreme weather conditions. (Trust me, that allows for some seriously funny cross-wind approaches!). Besides, we’ve all been in cross-wind approaches before, we just didn’t notice – unless you fly Emirates with their nose-gear camera and you see your fellow travellers nearing heart failure as the plane heads towards a 45 degree sector right off the runway.

Anyhow, one of my options to get to work includes a bus that runs parallel to one of the lesser used runways at Hamburg-Fuhlsbüttel Airport. Well, not exactly parallel, but parallel to its imagined extension, if you know what I mean.

It’s a strange sight. A BIG 777 taking off to Dubai (one of two intercontinental destinations out of Hamburg) racing my Metrobus 23 on my way to Barmbek-Süd .  (I do acknowledge this might only amuse people familiar with Hamburg’s socio-geographic infrastructure). But it’s such a stunning sight (the bus isn’t doing too bad!!) I’m trying to pretend to be bored while this is happening. But I fail badly.

It’s true. Go with the flow (of public transport!).

The plane safely brought me back to Hamburg this afternoon (mind you, it took me no less than eight take-offs to get over my anxiety after my excessive fascination with plane crash documentaries last autumn…). The pilot’s little innocent comment made me quite happy about coming home: “The weather in Hamburg is moderate, and there has been no forecast of rain for the last three hours.” Whether or not that was meant to be funny, I couldn’t resist a giggle.

So, in the last four weeks I have covered more than 470kms by train, 1,580 kms by bus, 270 kms by boat and – admittedly – 1,530 km by air. In other words, I’ve crossed Thailand twice, more or less.

I’ve taken well over 3,000 pictures, put on about six kilos (in luggage weight, stupid) and brought home a proper flu that was no joke during take-off and landing. My seat neighbours saw me crying like waterfalls, seriously. Even now, ten hours on, I’m still deaf on my left ear. I feel fairly crook, strangely misplaced and only physically present.

This trip will probably take weeks to digest. I will spend hours going through pictures and deciding which ones I want to keep, and which ones are worth investing some time on digital remastering. Most importantly, however, I will have to come to terms with the mass of impressions, sensations and experiences during the last month. I’m still sort of overwhelmed by what has happened. Weirdly enough so, it feels a lot more overpowering (and quite unreal!) now that I’m back than when I was there.

So, in the weeks to come, I will catch up on the diary entries that I have somewhat neglected in the last couple of weeks. I will also add more information and stories as they spring to mind, so to all the quiz people out there, do your revision, you have been warned!

For the moment, I should put my jet-lagged body to rest, finally.

The trip might have come to an end, the journey is far from over.

Compared to Railay this place almost feels incredibly cheap. Internet, on the other hand, is very pricey, so I’ll keep this one short (ish).

Apparently, Ko Phi Phi is what the Costa Brava is in Europe, and countless beach bars line the white sandy stretches (and yes, crystal clear emerald waters even when the clouds are out…). European’s middle class kids are out here on their first vacation without their parents, so it does occasionally get seriously trashy (I’m not going to Ko Pangnan (or whatever it’s called) for the full moon, so this is probably the most bogan sort of thing I’ll encounter.

I’ve found a seriously cheap place. That’s about it. It’s the most rotten dive on the planet, but it’s only a third of what I coughed up in Railay, but I’m not planning to spend my precious paradise time inside a shabby room, so I’ll be sweet. In a location where the normal resort rates start at double my daily allowance, I guess I was fairly lucky to find somewhere affordable to lay my head.

In Railay, I went for a snorkelling trip to greet nemo and his mates (I was one of the lucky ones to actually see Nemo), for a sunset (you could imagine it must be beautiful if it hadn’t been for the clouds), and a night swim admidst phosphoric plancton – that certainly was a 850 Baht moment!

Weather is a different matter altogether. It’s fairly cloudy, hot, with the odd three second drizzle. Disappointment with Suz, no tropical rain shower yet! Apparently the wet season is kicking in about two months earlier than usual (of course this must have happened when I’m visiting), and the start of the monsoon season means overcast days and three drops of rain a day.

It’s off to the Tsumani village tomorrow. Gotta do some history in the South!

I suppose it depends on which way you look at it.

Most people want both. Super natural, no-tourist areas, off the beaten track but with super cozy accommodation and with the amenities of a luxury hotel. But as mum said when you were younger, you can’t have both. Quite true, really.

As we set off on Tuesday morning, we see dozens of pick-up trucks loaded with backpackers awaiting the ultimate trekking experience. All of them have probably been promised the no-tourist, secluded Thailand mountain experience. I really don’t care that much at that stage, I am looking forward to some hiking, waterfalls (try out my new camera gadget), rain forests and, at night, a bonfire romance with the odd can of beer, some chitchat and a little craic.

However, as we are dumped in some fairly remote area (I’m glad the driver’s leaving us, his style of driving had us all quite sick, even those not on a hang over recovery), this will be the last time we see town people for the next 48 hours. The trek takes us up and down steep hills (strenuous on the lungs when going up and on the knees coming down), but the scenery is worth it. It’s a bit like bush walking in Australia – same super dry surroundings. I have always thought of rain forest and jungle more lashy. However, what sets this one apart from Oz is that this really comes fairly close to off the beaten track! The paths we’re on are very rocky, not quite accommodating for the unfit. Concentrate on where you set your feet, it could be the last you do!

The night camps are very basic, but surprisingly comfortable. (Never would have thought you can actually sleep on bamboo planks). The villagers are cooking for us, in return, they expect us to buy some of their ‘original’ mountain hill tribe merchandise, and are more or less welcoming (depending on village and purpose of stay: short-term toilet break or overnight stay spending big money on beer).

Our tour guides are very friendly. Well, one of them is like a duracell bunny (or on some kind of weird drugs). He just won’t stop being super cheery and, more often than I can take, very childish. He doesn’t know when to stop, which makes us rather angry at times (you’d wish all the bad things in the world to the guy who invented duracell).

As we return, we’re dirty, filthy, manky, and all the really uncomfortable things that make you feel proud of having pushed the limit. For myself that included trying bush tucker (a cooked tadpole we caught at the creek and a bug that looked awfully like a cockroach to me). But it’s no-tourist, yay!

Back at the hostel, I feel exhausted, but quite happy and relaxed. I’ve done all I wanted in the last couple of weeks, and there is no feeling of having missed something.

I suppose, if the road’s your journey, it’s hard to get lost.

After a rather cheapish two weeks between Bangkok and Chiang Mai I figured money buys you a little time. So I hopped on a 747 for a 50 minute flight into the capital city, from there on a slightly smaller plane to Krabi in Thailand’s south. Krabi is an international airport and serves daily flights to Bangkok and Helsinki (yep). I personally believe the local government pays Finnair to come here for international recognition, the airport is little more than a dirt track and a concrete slab. (I hear they use bamboo huts for security over in Phuket).

Finding budget accommodation is rather hard in the island region. (I learnt the hard way). But never give up! I found this remote place in the Ao Nang hinterland, miles away from the craic. But the beach is not that appealing anyway, the Irish Rover (sic) is closed for maintenance and big Baht are better spent in Rai Leh (orgasmic sunsets, so they say), so I figured just to go along with the ride and enjoy the tiny pool at the bottom of soaring cliffs. The restaurant is absolute crap here (figure that for a midrange resort!), but it helps keeping the prices low.

So Raileh will be next (or Rayley or Rilee, or…), then hopefully Phi Phil Island (if I can find accommodation, or else, sponsor me!) to meet up with a couple of friends I met in Chiang Mai. The weather is quite average, but for the first time in two weeks I see a blue sky! I mean, it wasn’t cloudy or rainy or anything (in fact, I’m gasping for a bit of a tropical shower, for the experience), but air pollution just means you don’t see anything but hazy sky. Saves you sunscreen, too.

This is roughly half-time.

The last couple of days in Lampang were very relaxed (see the hammock story…). I have a feeling this is where my holidays really started. Sitting by the river, not worrying about time and sightseeing (I’ve somehow grown a bit tired of wats). Reading – knowing me, I’m not a big reader at all! – a couple of books, enjoying the relaxed feel of both town and guesthouse, nightmarkets (get really filled for under a Euro) and chitchat with the locals.

I realised that people seem genuinly friendly in the countryside. However, there’s always an odd feeling of being looked upon as the walking Euro (or Baht), and while you pay 50 Baht for one trip with one taxi driver, you get the same for just 20 with the next. I mean I’m not greedy about a couple of euros, but it’s a principle thing and the feeling you’re being ripped off is a bit odd. In general though, I look at this as a game. Then again, a three hour train ride to Chiang Mai is 23 Baht (50c).

So, here I am, in Chiang Mai, one of the backpackers’ mecca and probably the last place to stay cheap (around 4 Euros), before I’m planning to head south again to jump on a couple of beach paradise islands. I wanna do the touristy thing (apparently, there are just no non-touristy things to do in Thailand), and go hiking, trekking, wild water rafting and elephant riding, possible in a one day if you want (I’ll go for a three day trek, thanks very much).

I’ve been following my plan to go in my own pace, and that’s just what’s happening. I didn’t plan to stay in Lampang at all, and I ended up staying there for three nights. I didn’t end up going on that motorbike – I deemed it a bit too risky. They only had manual bikes and I would have wanted to concentrate on traffic and not worry about fiddling around with clutches. However, I ended up taking a motorcycle taxi which was quite good fun.

Anyways, will be quick now, have crushed the computer twice already (internet quality is a totally different story altogether…)…

Anyway, a ride on a sawngthaew to the historial city of Sukhothai later, I realise that you can get prime service by the superfriendly local people. The coffee in the little cafe is rather dear but a blast (Thais certainly know how to make seriously good coffee), and the advice on the area is priceless. I rent a bike to venture out to explore the area.

The Sukhothai Historical Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the sheer size of it is amazing. I’ve seen a fair few temple ruins in the last few days, so sometimes it feels a bit too much of it, but cycling around is just the way to appreciate it. Little ruins, more or less well preserved, spring up every 300, 400 metres or so. Some of them are up to a thousand years old, truly amazing.

A day later I head further north to Lampang. Most travellers just stop over here for a few hours (more wats to see). However, I decide to stay at least a couple of days in a little river side guest house. It’s a pristine little place, wooden teak houses quietly tucked away. The welcome is warm and hearty. They show me two rooms, one comes with a balcony and river views – that’s certainly worth eight euros a night. The rest of the day I spend relaxing in a deck chair, with an occational visit to the fridge downstairs. It feels like home - if you feel like it, go to the fridge and serve yourself, leave a note at reception and enjoy!

I’m thinking of staying here for three nights, it’s a little more pricey than my budget allows, but it’s really cool. Tomorrow, I’ll be heading down to what is said to be the nicest wooden temple in Northern Thailand. And I’ll be heading out there on a motorcycle.

That’s Thai lifestyle.

Eating in restaurants and guest house bars is easy. It gets more interesting going to one of the kerb-side restaurants, usually involving plastic chairs and stools next to a small vendor cart. And as you move further away from Bangkok, chances are that the menu is in Thai only, making it extra adventurous to feed.

There is a commonly understood sign for asking if a dish is too spicy. I also get the impression that Thais will allow for Westerners and use less, if any, super hot spices. Too bad then, if you mistake a chili for a sun dried tomato. Well, at least it cured the sore throat I had been struggling with for a couple of days.

I’m quite open for new things and keep trying little snacks in the street. The latest were little meat balls that looked like sausages. I asked the lady what it is, but her English was barely enough to say ’10 Baht’, and it was probably for the better. It was something a bit like white haggis, spicy (not hot, though) and actually nowhere near a sausage taste, but quite nice. The night before I had tried fish sticks (round fish balls on a stick).

Thais certainly like their sweets! If a dish is not spicy, it’s probably very sweet containing about a month’s supply of sugar. Again, the combinations are bizarre. The one I tried was something like little sticky nut and sugar balls wrapped up in what was cooked like a crèpe, available in red, blue, green or white dough. All this smothered in coconut milk. Yummy!

So far I haven’t been sick at all (touch wood for me when you read this), except for a quick stint at the toilet a few nights ago. But I suppose that was just a normal adjustment reaction.

All sweet so far!

One of them caught my attention. As I was preparing to take a picture, I got attacked by a monkey from behind. He nicked a bag of sunflower seeds I had just bought from the entrance (instead of an admission fee). The whole bag gone! And what a greedy guy it was too; he was still eating about 20 minutes later and guess what, no he wasn’t sharing at all.

So, I’ve advanced further north. After two wonderful days at Ayutthaya (highlight: a talking bird!), I took another slow train to go on to Lop Buri, an hour’s train ride north. It’s famous for the wild monkeys. They are everywhere. And everyone apparently reckons they are a bit of a nuisance, but since realising how much tourism can be made from them, monkeys are honoured with huge monkey statues everywhere in town. (Has anyone read Bill Bryson’s Down Under where he mentions the giant lobster, or the big banana – or how Australians like anything huge? The monkey statue is a bit like that.)

Lop Buri is just about right for a couple of hours stop over. Or four if your onward train is delayed. The two legs from Bangkok cost a total of 35 Baht (roughly 80c), the onward leg on a second class, air conditioned express train are a whopping 393 Baht (about 8 Euros) to Phitsanoluk.

Apparently there’s not much to see in Phitsanoluk apart from a couple of temples, the night market and the Flying Vegetable Restaurant (if you thought German tourists are embarrassing, wait till I tell you the story of a 30-people British tour group and the mess they made of themselves in the Flying Veggie Restaurant…).

The next morning I ventured out to see what is the most sacred Buddha image in the country, matched only by the Emerald Buddha in the Grand Palace in Bangkok. Signs everywhere are in Thai, but they make sure Westerners get a chance to show respect: the only English script signs are “Please don’t stand up while taking a photo of the Buddha image”.

Outside the temple I see a guy drinking iced coffee straight from a plastic bag. It catches my attention and I want one. The girl at the vendor cart has no English at all, so lucky for me the Thai word for coffee is quite similar. I actually don’t know what I’m getting as she starts fiddling around with instant coffee powder (they ususally come with sugar and creamer in a 3-in-1), sugar and a disgusting looking semi-transparent white paste that reminds me of wall paper glue.

I get the farang bonus, probably combined with a farang surcharge as well, and my coffee is served in a huge plastic cup full of crushed ice. Coffee mixture on top and 20 Baht later I sit by the river and have what will be known as the most gorgeous thing I’ve ever tasted made of instant coffee. Lovely! It’ll probably be unmatched.

Later that day I moved on to Sukhothai, a UNESCO World Heritage site of old temple ruins. The national park is where I’m heading today (and by the time you read this I will probably have seen it).

See ya later.

My messages to Europe come through though. I found out when mum called yesterday to say that she got mine and to see if I’m ok. Good one mum, it’ll cost me a fortune.

Anyway, it’s such a great feeling of freedom to leave the phone behind (at the hostel). It means I’m without a watch as well, but in a country where time is absolutely relative, this is a great way to get away from it!